The second phase of our journey began on the 6th of September: the trip to Mali Losinj. I should warn the reader however, that my enthusiasm for making photographs had been seriously compromised by the fact that I was in extreme pain from a swollen cervical disc. For the next few days, Ark took most of the photos and I spent most of the time in the hotel room taking pain medication and using ice to reduce the swelling.
Mali Losinj is located in Kvarner bay towards the Otrantska gate. All important ship routes pass either by the island or near it. The island has a rich naval history. Mali Losinj is located between 44 ° 23' and 14 ° 33' E. It's total surface area is 74,68 sq. km, making it the 11th largest island among the Croatian Adriatic islands. The location and climate of Mali Losinj are the result of prehistoric glaciers that melted and flooded the surrounding area. This created an archipelago that is in the most beautiful sailing waters in the world. Humans inhabited the area before the glaciers melted and remains of Neolithic life have been found in nearby caves. According to local historians, the Illyrians and Liburnians originally inhabited the area, but the Greeks came, bringing with them their mythology. The Greek stories tell us that Jason, having stolen the golden fleece and princess Medea, reached the location of the present-day Osor and were greeted there by prince Apsyrtus, the son of Aetes and brother of Medea. This, it is said, is how the islands came to be called the Apsyrtides. According to the Greek myths brought to this area, Odysseus also came to Losinj on his way back from Troy. It is said that he had a close encounter with the Cyclops near Osorscice. He was then captured by Polyphemus who imprisoned him in the Vela cave. After the Greeks, the Romans came and conquered the islands. The people of Osor (the earlier name of the island) experienced a golden age under the Roman rule. It is believed that the population reached as high as 25,000 at this time. During Roman times, the emperor Octavian brought the fleet headed by Marcus Agrippa to Losinj Bay. Attila the Hun is said to have attempted to conquer the island but was stopped at the walls of Lubenica. After this, the Slavs and the Avars migrated from Asia and the rule was transferred from the West to the Eastern Roman Empire in Byzantium. The Croatian tribe arrived in the seventh century and the Saracens conquered Osor in 841 and burned it to the ground. In 1000 A.D., Venice was the leading power in the Adriatic and from this point on, except for short periods when the Croatian and Hungaro-Croatian kings ruled over them, the islands were under the rule of the Venetians until 1797. In the thirteenth century, Mongols forced the Croatian population to flee and in 1280, Osor allowed permanent residency for twelve families headed by Obrad Harnovic. They landed in the area called Velo selo which was to become Veli Losinj. During the Venetian rule, the settlement developed into a prosperous merchant and marine center. The rule over the Adriatic islands was juggled between the French and the Austrians from 1797 (Napoleon) to 1815. Austria prevailed and the islands belonged to them for the next 100 years. During this time, marine navigation, ship building, shipping trade and finally tourism supported life on these barren islands. There was much political moving about and finally, in 1990, the independent Republic of Croatia was born. If you look at the larger image of the map above, you will see that I have highlighted the route we traveled in yellow. Driving along the coast of the Istra peninsula was a fabulous experience. I think it is an easy rival to the French and Italian Riviera. I only wish I had not been in so much pain because I very much wanted to stop and take photographs. As it is, the photos start when Ark was finally able to take charge of the camera as we were waiting for the ferry at Brestova. The sun was blazing in the sky and that adds a peculiar tint to the photographs. My own efforts were restricted to what I could photograph from the car as we were driving. For an interesting discussion of Life on Mali Losinj, go HERE. |